Sir William de Wiveleslie Abney (1843 - 1920)

Born: 24 July, Derby, England

President of the Royal Photographic Society 1892-1894, 1896, 1903-1905
He was knighted in 1900.

Publications :

   The Pioneers of the Alps (1887), with C.D. Cunningham (qv)
   A Facsimile of Christian Almer's 'Fuhrerbuch', 1856 - 94 (1896), with C.D. Cunningham (qv)


George Dixon Abraham (1872 - 1965) (w)

Born: Keswick, England

Publications :

   The Complete Mountaineer (1907)
   British Mountain Climbs (1909)
   Mountain Adventures at Home and Abroad (1910)
   Swiss Mountain Climbs (1911)
   On Alpine Heights and British Crags (1916)
   First Steps to Climbing (1923)
   Rock Climbing in North Wales (1906) ( with A.P.Abraham )
   Camera on the Crags (1975), by Alan Hankinson


Ashley Perry Abraham (1876 - 1951) (w)

Born: Keswick, England

Publications :

   Rock Climbing in Skye (1908)
   Rock Climbing in North Wales (1906) ( with G.D.Abraham )
   Camera on the Crags (1975), by Alan Hankinson


Charles Ainslie (1820 - 1863)

Born: England

A member of the party which made the first guideless ascent of
Mont Blanc in 1855.

Publications :

   The Annals of Mont Blanc (1898) by C.E.Mathews


Hari Pal Singh Ahluwalia

Born: India

A member of the party which reached the summit of Everest in 1965.

Publications :

   Higher Than Everest (1973)
   Faces of Everest (1978)
   Eternal Himalaya (1982), including 'Views in Himalaya' by George Francis White.


Patrick Oliver Ament (b. 1951)

Born: America

Publications :

   Swaramandal (1973)
   Master of Rock (1977), biography of John Gill
   Rock Wise (1978)


Melchior Anderegg (1828 - 1912)

Born: Zaun, Switzerland

One of the greatest of the early guides who climbed with Leslie Stephen (qv) and Horace and Lucy Walker.

First ascents :

   Rimpfischhorn (1859)
   Mont Blanc by the Bosses Ridge (1859)
   Dents d'Herens (1863)
   Parrotspitze of Monte Rosa (1863)
   Mont Blanc by the Brenva Face (1865)
   Mont Mallet (1871)



Publications :

   The Early Alpine Guides (1949) by R.W.Clark


Henry Martin Atkins (1818 - 1842)

Born: England

Made the 24th ascent of Mont Blanc.

Publications :

   Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc on the 22nd and 23rd of August, 1837 (1838)
   Annals of Mont Blanc (1898) by C.E.Mathews


John Richardson Auldjo (1805 - 1886)

Born: Ireland

Made the 19th ascent of Mont Blanc.

Publications :

   Narrative of an Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc, on the 8th and 9th of August, 1827 (1828)
   Annals of Mont Blanc (1898) by C.E.Mathews


Marc Antonin Azema

Born: France?

Publications :

   The Conquest of Fitzroy (1957)


Ernest Albert Baker (1869 - 1941)

Born: England

Publications :

   Moors, Crags and Caves of the High Peak and the Neighbourhood (1903)
   The Voice of the Mountains (1905), with Francis E. Ross (Editors)
   The Highlands With Rope and Rucksack (1923)
   On Foot in the Highlands (1932)
   The British Highlands With Rope and Rucksack (1933)


John Ball (1818 - 1889) (w)

Born: Ireland

The first president of the Alpine Club from 1858 to 1860.
In 1857 he made the ascent of Pelmo, the first major Dolomite peak to be climbed.

Publications :

   Ball's Alpine Guides :-
      The Western Alps (1863)
      The Central Alps (1864)
      The Eastern Alps (1868)
   Editor of : Peaks, Passes and Glaciers, Vol 1 (1859)


Jacques Balmat (1762 - 1834) (w)

Born: Chamonix, France

A crystal and chamois hunter who, with Michel Paccard (qv), made
the first ascent of Mont Blanc on 8 Aug. 1786. A few years later
he made an ascent with Marie Paradis, the first woman to reach the summit.

Publications :

   The Annals of Mont Blanc (1898) by C.E.Mathews


George C. Band (b. 1929) (w)

Born: England

A member of the 1953 Everest expedition. In 1955 he did the first ascent of Kanchenjunga with Joe Brown.

Publications :

   Road to Rakaposhi (1955)
   Kanchenjunga: the Untrodden Peak (1956) by Charles Evans
   Everest: 50 Years on Top of the World (2003)


Michael Edward Borg Banks (b. 1922)

Born: England

A marine commando and mountaineer who, together with Tom Patey (qv), made the first ascent of Rakaposhi in 1958.

Publications :

   Command Climber (1955), autobiography
   High Arctic (1957)
   Rakaposhi (1959)
   Greenland (1975)
   Mountaineering for Beginners (1977)


John Barry

Born: England

A former soldier who became one of Britain's foremost winter climbers.

Publications :

   Cold Climbs (1983), with Ken Wilson and Dave Alcock
   The Great Climbing Adventure (1985)
   Safety in Mountains ( )
   Snow and Ice Climbing (1987)
   K2 Savage Mountain; Savage Summer (1987)
   Alpine Climbing (1988)
   Climbing School (1988)
   Rock Climbing (1988)


Paul Bauer (b. 1896)

Born: Germany

The leader of the German expeditions to Kanchenjunga in 1929 and 1931.

Publications :

   Himalayan Campaign (1937)
   Himalayan Quest (1938)
   Kanchejunga Challenge (1955)
   The Seige of Nanga Parbat, 1856-1953 (1956)


Sir Gavin Rylands de Beer (1899 - 1972)

Born: England

An authority on the history of travel in the Swiss Alps.

Publications :

   Early Travellers in the Alps (1930)
   Alps and Men (1932)
   Travellers in Switzerland (1949)
   Speaking of Switzerland (1952)
   Alps and Elephants (1955)
   The First Ascent of Mont Blanc (1957) with T. Graham Brown


James Horst Brunnerman Bell (1896 - 1976)

Born: Scotland

Publications :

   British Hills and Mountains (1940)
   A Progress in Mountaineering (1950)


Peter Boardman (1950 - 1982) (w)

Born: Stockport, England

One of the leading British mountaineers of the 1970s and
early 80s, he reached the summit of Everest on the
British South West Face Expedition of 1975.

Publications :

   The Shining Mountain (1978)
   Sacred Summits (1982)
   Kongur, China's Elusive Summit (1982) by Chris Bonington (qv)
   Everest the Unclimbed Ridge (1983), by Chris Bonington and
   Charles Clarke


Walter Bonatti (b. 1930) (w)

Born: Bergamo, Italy

First ascents :

   East Face of the Grand Capucin (with L.Ghigo), 1951
   SW Pillar of the Dru (solo), 1955
   Eckpfeiler Buttress (with T.Gobbi), 1957
   Pilastro Rosso (with A.Oggioni), 1959
   Route Major (first solo ascent), 1959
   Matterhorn North Face Direct (solo), 1965

   He was a member of the successful Italian expedition to make the first
   ascent of K2 in 1954, though he was not in the summit party.

   In 1958, with C. Mauri, he made the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV.

Publications :

   The Ascent of K2 (1955) by Ardito Desio
   On the Heights (1964)
   The Great Days (1974)
   Magic of Mont Blanc (1985)


Sir Christian John Storey Bonington (b. 1934) (w)

Born: London, England

Leader of, or participated in, successful expeditions to climb :-

   Nuptse, 1961 (The day after the first ascent)

   South Face of Annapurna, 1970

   South-West face of Everest, 1975

   Changabang, 1974

   The Ogre, 1977

   Kongur, 1981

   Everest - summited, 1985

   ... plus scores of others too numerous to list here.

Publications :

   I Chose to Climb (1966), autobiography
   Annapurna South Face (1971)
   The Next Horizon (1973), autobiography
   Everest South-West Face (1973)
   Changabang (1975) with Martin Boysen (qv) and Alan Hankinson (qv)
   Everest the Hard Way (1976)
   Quest for Adventure (1981)
   Kongur, China's Elusive Summit (1982)
   Everest the Unclimbed Ridge (1983) with Charles Clarke (qv)
   The Everest Years, A Climber's Life (1986), autobiography
   The Climbers (1992)
   High Achiever (1999) biography by Jim Curran (qv)
   Tibet's Secret Mountain: The Triumph of Sepu Kangri (2000) with Charles Clarke
   Chris Bonington's Everest (2002)


Thomas George Bonney (1833 - 1923) (w)

Born: Rugeley, Staffordshire, England

Cleric, geologist and mountaineer and A.C. President 1881-83.

Publications :

   Outline Sketches in the High Alps of Dauphine (1865)
   The Alpine Regions of Switzerland and the Neighbouring Countries (1868)
   The Building of the Alps (1912)
   Memories of a Long Life (1921)


Jan Anders Martin Boysen (b. 1941)

Born: England

One of the leading British mountaineers of the 60s and 70s.

Publications :

   Annapurna South Face (1971) by Chris Bonington
   Changabang (1975) with C.J.S.Bonington (qv) and Alan Hankinson (qv)
   Trango, the Nameless Tower (1978) by Jim Curran


Thomas Graham Brown (1882 - 1965)

Born: England

A pioneer of several major routes on the Brenva Face of
Mont Blanc.

Publications :

   Brenva (1944)
   The First Ascent of Mont Blanc (1957) with Gavin de Beer


Joe Brown (b. 1930) (w)

Born: Ardwick, Manchester, England

Pushed back the boundaries of British rock climbing beginning
in the 50s when he put up many hard, new routes, especially with Don Whillans (qv) . A member of the summit team on the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955.

Publications :

   Kanchenjunga: The Untrodden Peak (1956), by Charles Evans
   The Hard Years (1967)
   Portrait of a Mountaineer (1971), by Don Whillans with Alick Ormerod


Hon. Charles Granville Bruce (1866 - 1939)

Born: England

Soldier, mountaineer and early Himalayan explorer. Leader of the 1922 and 1924 Everest expeditions. Alpine Club President 1923 - 1925.

Publications :

   Twenty Years in the Himalaya (1910)
   Kulu and Lahoul (1914)
   The Assault on Mount Everest 1922 (1923)
   Himalayan Wanderer (1934)


Hermann Buhl (1924 - 1957) (w)

Born: Austria

Alone, he made the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953 and was a member of the team which was the first to ascend Broad Peak on 9th June 1957. He died eighteen days later on Chogolisa while climbing with Kurt Diemberger (qv).

Publications :

   Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage (1956)
   Summits and Secrets (1971) by Kurt Diemberger
   Hermann Buhl: Climbing Without Compromise (2001) by Horst Hofler and Reinhold Messner (qv)


Alexander Burgener (1846 - 1910)

Born: Eisten in Saas, Switzerland

The great guide who accompanied Mummery (qv) on many climbs.

First ascents :

   Lenzspitze , 1870
   Portjengrat , 1871
   Grand Dru , 1878
   Zmutt Ridge of the Matterhorn , 1879
   Traverse of the Col du Lion , 1880
   Grands Charmoz , 1880
   Charpoua Face of the Aiguille Verte , 1881
   Grepon , 1881
   Mont Maudit by the Frontier Ridge , 1887
   Taschhorn by the Teufelsgrat , 1887

Publications :

   My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1895) by A.Mummery
   The Early Alpine Guides by R.W.Clark (1949)


Mick Burke (1940 - 1975)

Born: Wigan, England

Publications :

   Everest the Hard Way (1976), by Chris Bonington (qv)


Eric Byne (1911 - 1969)

Born: England

Was a major contributor to the early guidebooks for the gritstone outcrops
of the Peak District and Derbyshire.

Publications :

   High Peak (1966), with Geoffrey Sutton (qv)


Riccardo Cassin (b. 1909)

Born: Italy

First ascents :

North-East face of the Piz Badile (1937)
Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses (1938)
South Buttress of Mount McKinley (1961) later known as the 'Cassin Ridge'

Publications :

   50 Years of Alpinism (1981)


Ronald William Clark (b. 1916)

Born: England

Writer and mountaineering historian.

Publications :

   The Splendid Hills (1948)
   The Early Alpine Guides (1949)
   The Victorian Mountaineers (1953)
   Come Climbing With Me (1955)
   Great Moments in Mountaineering (1956)
   Six Great Mountaineers (1956)
   A Picture History of Mountaineering (1956)
   Mountaineering in Britain (1957) with E.C.Pyatt
   The True Book About Mountaineering (1957)
   Instructions to Young Ramblers (1958)
   An Eccentric in the Alps (1959)
   The Day the Rope Broke (1965)
   The Alps (1973)
   Men, Myths and Mountains (1977)


John S. Cleare (b. 1936)

Born: England

A climber and leading mountaineering photographer.

Publications :

   Sea Cliff Climbing in Britain (1973), with R.G.Collomb
   Mountains (1975)
   Collins Guide to Mountains and Mountaineering (1979)
   Mountaineering (1980)


Charles Clarke (b. 1944)

Born: England

Medical officer for the 1975 British Everest Expedition.

Publications :

   Mountain Medicine and Physiology (1975)
   Everest (1978)
   Everest the Unclimbed Ridge (1983) with Chris Bonington (qv)
   Lightweight Expeditions to the Great Ranges (1984)


Ian Clough (1937 - 1970) (w)

Born: Baildon, Yorkshire, England

Publications :

   Ben Nevis and Glencoe (1969)
   Annapurna South Face (1971) by Chris Bonington (qv)


John Norman Collie (1859 - 1942) (w)

Born: Alderley Edge, nr Manchester, England

One of the great pioneering mountaineers of the early 20th
century. His most famous British 'firsts' include :

a) the crossing of the Thearlaich-Dubh Gap
b) the ascent of Sgurr Coire an Lochan, the last summit to be attained in Britain
c) the ascent of Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis

Collie was famous for cutting, with an ice axe, the controversial
Collie Step during his ascent of Moss Ghyll, Scafell, in 1892.

In the Alps he climbed with Mummery (qv). Here his 'firsts' include :

a) the SW face of the Plan
b) the Grepon traverse
c) the first guideless ascent of the Old Brenva Route

He also achieved first ascents in the Rockies and Lofoten Islands.

Collie was also a distinguished scientist - he discovered the gas neon
and was the first to make practical use of X-rays.

Sgurr Thormaid ( Norman's Peak ), on Skye, is named after him.

Publications :

   Climbing on the Himalaya and other Mountain Ranges (1902)
   Climbs and Expeditions in the Canadian Rockies (1903) with Hugh Stutfield
   Norman Collie - A life in two worlds, mountain explorer and scientist, 1859 - 1942
      (1987) by Christine Mill
   From the Himalaya to Skye (2003) by Ian Robertson (ed)


Achille Compagnoni (b. 1914) (w)

Born: Italy

The first, with Lino Lacedelli (qv), to ascend K2, in 1954

Publications :

   Ascent of K2 (1955) by Ardito Desio (qv)


William Martin Conway, Lord Conway of Allington (1856 - 1937) (w)

Born: England

Publications :

   Zermatt Pocket-Book (1881)
   Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalayas (1894)
   The Alps from End to End (1895)
   The First Crossing of Spitsbergen (1897)
   With Ski and Sledge Over Arctic Glaciers (1898)
   The Bolivian Andes (1901)
   Aconcagua and Tierra del Fuego (1902)
   The Alps (1904)
   No Man's Land (1906)
   Mountain Memories: a Pilgrimage of Romance (1920)
   Episode in a Varied Life, by Lord Conway of Allington (1932)


William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge (1850 - 1926)

Born: New York

Publications :

   Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide Books (1889)
   Climbs in the Alps Made in the Years 1865 to 1900 (1900)
   Walks and Excursions in the Valley of Grindlewald (1900)
   The Alps in Nature and History (1908)
   Alpine Studies (1912)
   The Alpine Career (1868-1914) of Frederick Gardner Described by his Friend
      W.A.B.Coolidge (1920)


Edward Alexander (Aleister) Crowley (1875 - 1947) (w)

Born: Leamington Spa, England

A controversial figure who dabbled in the occult, he led expeditions to K2 in 1902
and Kanchenjunga in 1905.

Publications :

   The Spirit of Solitude (1929), later retitled The Confessions of Aleister Crowley
   The Great Beast (1951), biography by John Symonds


Mike Cudahy (b. 19??)

Born: England

Ultra long-distance fellrunner who, in 1984, set a new Pennine Way
record of  2 days - 21 hours - 54 minutes.

Publications :

   Studmarks on the Summits (1985) by Bill Smith
   Wild Trails to Far Horizons (1989)


Carus Dunlop Cunningham (1856 - 1896)

Born: Scotland?

Publications :

   The Pioneers of the Alps (1887), with W. de W. Abney (qv)
   A Facsimile of Christian Almer's 'Fuhrerbuch', 1856 - 94 (1896), with W. de W. Abney (qv)


John Cunningham (1927 - 1980)

Born: Scotland

A leading post-war Scottish climber.

Publications :

   Guide to Winter Climbs: Cairngorms and Creag Meaghaidh (1973)
   Creagh Dhu Climber - The Life and Times of John Cunningham (1999) biography by Jeff Connor


James Curran (b.1943)

Born: England

Publications :

   Trango, the Nameless Tower (1978)
   K2: Triumph and Tragedy (1987)
   K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain (1995)
   High Achiever (1999) biography of Chris Bonington (qv)


Clinton Thomas Dent (1850 - 1912)

Born: England

A prominent mountaineer in the late 18th century.
First ascent of the Aiguille du Dru with J.Walker Hartley, Alexander Burgener (qv) and
Kaspar Maurer in 1878.

Publications :

   Above the Snow Line (1885)
   Mountaineering (1892)


Ardito Desio (1897 - 2001) (w)

Born: Palmanova, Italy

The leader of the first successful expedition to K2 in 1954.

Publications :

   Ascent of K2 (1955)


Rene Desmaison (b.1930 )

Born: France

First ascent of Jannu in 1962.

Publications :

   Total Alpinism (1982)


Kurt Diemberger (b. 1932) (w)

Born: Austria

A foremost mountaineer who made the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957
and of Dhaulagiri in 1960. His achievement in making first ascents of two
8000m summits is unique.

Publications :

   Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage (1956) by Hermann Buhl (qv)
   The Ascent of Dhaulagiri (1961) by Max Eiselin
   Summits and Secrets (1971)
   The Endless Knot (1991), autobiography
   Spirits of the Air (1994), autobiography
   K2 - The Ultimate Challenge (1995), with Roberto Mantovani
   K2 - Challenging the Sky (1997)


Graeme Dingle (b.1945)

Born: New Zealand

Publications :

   Two Against the Alps (1972)
   Wall of Shadows(1976)
   First Across the Roof of the World (1982), with Peter Hillary


Arthur Rhodes Dolphin (1925 - 1953)

Born: nr. Bradford, Yorkshire, England

A leading climber of the 40s and early 50s who made the first
ascent of Kipling Groove on Gimmer Crag in 1948. He was killed
after falling on relatively easy snow slopes while descending,
having soloed the Aiguille du Geant.

Publications :

   Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, 100 Years of Rock Climbing (1983)
         by Bill Birkett
   100 Years of Rock Climbing in the Lake District
         (Fell and Rock Journal 1986) edited by A.G.Cram


Gunter Oscar Dyrenfurth

Born: Switzerland

The leader of the 1930 international Kanchenjunga expedition

Publications :

   To the Third Pole (1955)


Oscar Johannes Ludwig Eckenstein (1859 - 1921) (w)

Born: England

Publications :

   The Alpine Portfolio (1889), with August Lorria
   The Karakorams and Kashmir (1896)


John Menlove Edwards (1910 - 1958)

Born: Crossens, Lancashire, England

Publications :

   Samson: The Life and Writings of Menlove Edwards (1960),
     edited by Wilfrid Noyce and Geoffrey Sutton
   Menlove (1985), a biography by Jim Perrin


Max Eiselin

Born: Germany

Publications :

   The Ascent of Dhaulagiri (1961)


Claire Eliane Engel

Born: France?

Publications :

   They Came to the Hills (1952)
   A History of Mountaineering in the Alps (1959),
   Mont Blanc (1965)
   Mountaineering in the Alps (1971)


Sir Robert Charles Evans (b.1912) (w)

Born: England

Deputy leader of the 1953 Everest expedition he was one of the first
to reach the South summit.

Publications :

   Eye On Everest (1955)
   Kanchenjunga: The Untrodden Peak (1956)
   On Climbing (1956)


George Everest (1790 - 1866)

Born: England

Not a mountaineer but the Surveyor General of India from 1830.

Publications :

   The Great Arc by John Keay


Filippo de Filippi (1869 - 1938)

Born: Turin, Italy

A surgeon, scholar, mountain traveller and official recorder of the Duke of Abruzzi's expeditions.

Publications :

   The Ascent of Mount St. Elias (Alaska) by H.R.H. Price Luigi Amadeo di Savoia (1900)
   Ruwenzori (1908)
   Karakoram and the Western Himalaya 1909 (1912)
   The Italian Expedition to the Himalaya, Karakoram and Eastern Turkestan (1913-1914) (1932)


George Ingle Finch (1888 - 1970) (w)

Born: Australia

The scientist responsible for the oxygen equipment on the British Everest
Expedition of 1922. He was A.C.President 1959-1961.

Publications :

   The Making of a Mountaineer (1924)
   Climbing Mount Everest (1930)


Valdemar Axel Firsoff (1912 - 1981)

Born: Scotland (but of Swedish descent)

Publications :

   The Tatra Mountains (1942)
   The Cairngorms on Foot and Ski (1949)
   Arran With Camera and Sketchbook (1951)


Edward Arthur Fitzgerald (1871 - 1931)

Born: England?

Publications :

   Climbs in the New Zealand Alps (1896)
   The Highest Andes (1899)


James David Forbes (1809 - 1868) (w)

Born: Edinburgh, Scotland

Publications :

   Travels Through the Alps of Savoy and Other Parts of the Pennine Chain With Observations
      on the Phenomena of Glaciers (1843)
   Norway and its Glaciers Visited in 1851 (1853)


Mick Fowler (b.1956)

Born: London, England

A mountaineer and technical ice-climber of the first order, well known
for his long drives from London to the North-West Highlands of
Scotland for a weekend's winter climbing.

1987 first ascent, with Victor Saunders (qv), of the Golden Pillar of Spantik (7028m)

Publications :

   Elusive summits (1990), by Victor Saunders
   Vertical Pleasure (1995)
   On Thin Ice (2005)


Jean Franco

Born: Italy

Leader of the expeditions which made the first ascents of Makalu and Jannu.

Publications :

   Makalu (1957)
   At Grips with Jannu (1967), with Lionel Terray (qv)


William Douglas Freshfield (1845 - 1934) (w)

Born: England

One of the greatest of mountain explorers especially in the Caucasus
and around Kanchenjunga. He was president of the Alpine Club from
1893 to 1895.

Publications :

   Across Country from Thonon to Trent (1865)
   Travels in the Central Caucasus and Bashan (1869)
   Italian Alps (1875)
   The Exploration of the Caucasus (1896)
   Round Kanchenjunga (1903)
   Hannibal Once More (1914)
   Unto the Hills (1914)
   The Life of Horace-Benedict de Saussure (1920)
   Quips for Cranks and Other Trifles (1923)
   Below the Snow Line (1923)


Hermann Geiger

Born: Switzerland

A specialist in mountain rescue by air.

Publications :

   Alpine Pilot (1956)
   Geiger and the Alps (~1958)


Giusto Gervasutti (1909 - 1946)

Born: Italy

Publications :

   Gervasutti's Climbs (1957)


Peter Gillman

Born: England

Publications :

   Eiger Direct (1966) with Dougal Haston (qv)
   Fitness on Foot (Climbing and Walking for Pleasure) (1978)
   In Balance (1989)
   Everest: The Best Writing and Pictures From Seventy Years of Human Endeavour (1993)
   The Wildest Dream: Mallory, his Life and Conflicting Passion (2001) with Leni Gillman
   Everest: Eighty Years of Triumph and Tragedy (2001)


Rev Arthur Gilbert Girdlestone (1842 - 1908)

Born: England

Publications :

   The High Alps Without Guides (1870)


Luigi Amadeo Giuseppe, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873 - 1933) (w)

Born: Madrid, Spain

Grandson of King Victor Emmanuel II of Italy.
The Duke led several major expeditions, the most
important of which was that to the Karakoram in 1909.

Publications :

   The Ascent of Mount St. Elias (Alaska) by H.R.H. Prince Luigi
     Amadeo di Savoia, Duke of the Abruzzi (1900) by F. de Filippi (qv)
   Ruwenzori (1908) by F. de Filippi
   Karakoram and Western Himalaya 1909 (1912) by F. de Filippi
   The Duke of the Abruzzi: An Explorer's Life (1997) by Mirella Tenderini & Michael Shandrick


Col. Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen (1834 - 1923)

Born: England

The geographer and surveyor after whom K2 became named in 1886 before
eventually reverting to its original designation.

Publications :

   When Men and Mountains Meet (1977) by John Keay


Bob Graham (1889 - 1966)

Born: England

The first to achieve, in 1932, the long-distance traverse of
the Lakeland fells now known as ' The Bob Graham Round '.

See ' The Bob Graham Round - A Brief History '

Publications :

   42 Peaks - the Story of the Bob Graham Round (1982) by Roger Smith
   Studmarks on the Summits (1985) by Bill Smith


William Spotswood Green (1847 - 1919)

Born: Ireland

One of the first to climb in the high peaks of Canada and New Zealand.

Publications :

   The High Alps of New Zealand (1883)
   Among the Selkirk Glaciers (1890)


Anthony Greenbank

Born: England

Publications :

   Instructions in Rock Climbing (1963)
   Climbing, Canoeing, Skiing and Caving (1964)
   Instructions in Rock Climbing (1967)
   A Book of Survival (1967)
   Climbing Mountains (1973)
   Climbing Rocks (1973)
   Enjoy Your Rock Climbing (1976)
   Climing for Young People (1977)
   Walking, Hiking and Backpacking (1977)


Alfred Gregory (b.1913)

Born: England

The official photographer on the 1953 British Everest Expedition

Publications :

   The Picture of Everest (1954)


A. Harry Griffin (1911 - 2004)

Born: England

Rock climber, scrambler, walker, historian and prolific writer
about his beloved Lake District. One of the very best
and most evocative of the Lakeland authors.

Publications :

   Inside the Real Lakeland (1961)
   In Mountain Lakeland (1963)
   Pageant of Lakeland (1966)
   The Roof of England (1968)
   Still the Real Lakeland (1970)
   Long Days in the Hills (1974)
   Discovering Lakeland (A Motorist's Guide) (1975)
   A Lakeland Notebook (1975)
   A Year in the Fells (1976)
   Freeman of the Hills (1978)
   Adventuring in Lakeland (1980)
   A Lakeland Mountain Diary (1990)
   The Coniston Tigers (1999)


Florence Crauford Grove (1838 - 1902)

Born: England

A.C.President, 1884-86, he was one of the best British climbers of his day but nevertheless
opposed guideless climbing during the 1870s.

Publications :

   The Frosty Caucasus (1875)


Peter Habeler (b. 1942)

Born: Germany

Publications :

   Everest, Impossible Victory (1979)


Alan Hankinson (b.1926)

Born: England

Publications :

   The First Tigers (1972)
   Camera on the Crags (1975)
   Changabang (1975), with C.J.S.Bonington (qv) and Martin Boysen (qv)
   The Mountain Men (1977)
   A Century on the Crags (1988)
   Coleridge Walks the Fells - A Lakeland Journey Retraced (1991)
   Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1995)


Alison Hargreaves (1963 - 1995) (w)

Born: England

Publications :

   A Hard Day's Summer (1994)
   One and Two Halves to K2 (1996) by James Ballard
   Regions of the Heart: The Triumph and Tragedy of Alison Hargreaves (1999) by David Rose and Ed Douglas


Heinrich Harrer (1912 - 2006) (w)

Born: Austria

A member of the party which made the first ascent of the Eiger North Face in 1938.
He was interned inIndia at the start of the Second World War but escaped and
journeyed to Lhasa.

Publications :

   Seven Years in Tibet (1953)
   The White Spider (1959)
   I Come From the Stone Age (1964)
   Return to Tibet (1984)


Dougal Haston (1940 - 1977) (w)

Born: Currie, Midlothian, Scotland

Publications :

   Eiger Direct (1966) with Peter Gillman
   In High Places (1973)
   The Eiger (1974)
   Dougal Haston - The Philosophy of Risk (2002), by Jeff Connor (biog)


Anderl Heckmair (1906 - 2005)

Born: Germany

A prominent climber of the pre-war period best known for
leading the first ascent of the North Wall of the Eiger
in 1938.

Publications :

   My Life as a Mountaineer (1975)
   My Life (2002)


Siegfried Wedgwood Herford (1891 - 1916) (w)

Born: England

A fine rock climber whose brief climbing career began in
about 1910 and ended in the trenches at Ypres in 1916.
He was a member of the first party to climb Central Buttress
on Scafell Crag in 1914.

Publications :

   Siegfried Herford - An Edwardian Rock Climber (2000) by Keith Treacher


Karl Herrligkoffer (1916 - 1991)

Born: Germany

Leader of the 1953 expedition to Nanga Parbat when the mountain was successfully climbed by Hermann Buhl (qv).

Publications :

   Nanga Parbat (1954)


Maurice Herzog (b.1919) (w)

Born: France

The leader and summiteer of the successful expedition to Annapurna, the first 8000m peak to be climbed (on 3rd June 1950).

Publications :

   Annapurna (1952)


Toni Hiebeler (1930 - 1984)

Born: Germany

The leader of the party which made the first ascent of the Eiger North Wall in winter.

Publications :

   North Face in Winter (1961)


Lynn Hill (b.1961)

Born: America

One of the best rock climbers in the USA.

Publications :

   Climbing Free (2002)


Edmund Hillary (1919) (w)

Born: New Zealand

Publications :

   High Adventure (1955)
   Challenge of the Unknown (1958)
   No Latitude for Error (1961)
   High in the Thin Cold Air (1962), with Desmond Doig
   Schoolhouse in the Clouds (1964)
   Nothing Venture, Nothing Win (1975), autobiography
   From the Ocean to the Sky (1979)


Thomas Woodbine Hinchliff (1825 - 1882)

Born: England

He took Edward Whymper (qv) on his first Alpine climb, the Riffelhorn, in 1860.
He was president of the Alpine Club 1875-77.

Publications :

   Summer Months Among the Alps (1857)


Sir Joseph Dalton Hooker (1817 - 1911)

Born: England

Publications :

   Himalayan Journals (1854)
   Journal of a Tour in Morocco and the Great Atlas (1878) with John Ball (qv)


Thomas Frederick Hornbein (b.1930)

Born: America

With Willi Unsoeld he was the first to traverse Everest - up by the West Ridge and down
the normal route in 1963.

Publications :

   Everest: The West Ridge (1966)
   Fatal Mountaineer (2002) by Robert Roper


Charles Houston (b. 1913)

Born: America

The joint leader, with H.W.Tilman (qv), of the team which made the first ascent of Nanda Devi in 1936.
He also led two American expeditions to K2 in 1938 and 1953.

Publications :

   K2, The Savage Mountain (1954), with Robert Bates
   Going High (1980)


William Howard (1793 - 1834)

Born: America

With Dr. Jeremiah van Rensselaer, Howard made the ninth ascent of Mont Blanc on 12th of July 1819.
It was the first ascent by Americans.

Publications :

   A Narrative of a Journey to the Summit of Mont Blanc, 1819 (1821)


Charles Kenneth Howard-Bury (1883 - 1963)

Born: England

The leader of the 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition.

Publications :

   Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance, 1921 (1922)


Charles Hudson (1828 - 1865)

Born: England

The leading amateur mountaineer of his day who made the first guideless
ascent of Mont Blanc. He accompanied Whymper (qv) on the first ascent
of the Matterhorn but was killed on the descent.

Other first ascents :-

Monte Rosa, Dufourspitze, 1855
Mont Blanc du Tacul, 1855

Publications :

   Where There's a Will There's a Way (1856), with Edward Shirley Kennedy (1817 - 1898)
   Annals of Mont Blanc (1898) by C.E.Mathews


Benjamin Hutchinson Humble (d.1977)

Born: Scotland

Publications :

   Tramping in Skye (1933)
   The Songs of Skye (1934)
   Songs for Climbers (1938)
   On Scottish Hills (1946)
   The Cuillin of Skye (1952)


John Hunt (1910 - 1998) (w)

Born: Marlborough, Wiltshire, England

The leader of the first successful expedition to Everest in 1953.

Publications :

   The Ascent of Everest (1953)
   Our Everest Adventure (1954)
   The Red Snows: An Account of the British Caucasus Expedition 1958 (1960), with Christopher Brasher
   Life is Meeting (1978)
   My Favourite Mountaineering Stories (1978)


Andrew Irvine (1902 - 1924) (w)

Born: Birkenhead, England

Disappeared with George Mallory (qv) on Everest

Publications :

   The Fight for Everest: 1924 (1925), by E.F.Norton (qv)
   The Irvine Diaries (1979), by Herbert Carr
   The mystery of Mallory and Irvine (1986), by Tom Holzel
      and Audrey Salkeld
   The Ghosts of Everest (1999), by Jochen Hemmleb,
      Larry A. Johnson and Eric R. Simonson
   Fearless on Everest (2000), by Julie Summers


Robert Lock Graham Irving (1877 - 1969)

Born: England

Publications :

   The Romance of Mountaineering (1935)
   The Alps (1938)
   The Mountain Way (1938)
   Ten Great Mountains (1940)
   The Mountains Shall Bring Peace (1947)
   A History of British Mountaineering (1955)


John Angelo Jackson (1921 - 2005) (w)

Born: Nelson, Lancashire, England

Publications :

   More Than Mountains (1955)
   Kanchenjunga (1955) by John W Tucker
   Kanchenjunga: The Untrodden Peak (1956) by R.C. Evans


Owen Glynne Jones (1867 - 1899)

Born: Paddington, London

Publications :

   Rock climbing in the English Lake District (1897)


John Keay

Born: England

Publications :

   The Gilgit Game - The Explorers of the Western Himalayas, 1886-95 (1979)
   When Men and Mountains Meet - The Explorers of the Western Himalayas, 1820-75 (1977)
   The Great Arc (2000)


Francis Keenlyside

Born: England

Publications :

   Peaks and Pioneers: The Story of Mountaineering (1975)


Colin Kirkus (1910 - 1942) (w)

Born: Liverpool, England

One of the leading climbers of the thirties, especially on Welsh rock.

Publications :

   Let's Go Climbing (1941)
   Hands of a Climber (1993) a biography by Steve Dean


Christian Klucker (1853 - 1928)

Born: Austria?

One of the greatest of all Alpine guides who made many new
climbs, especially with Ludwig Norman-Neruda (qv) in 1890.

Publications :

   Adventures of an Alpine Guide (1932) published posthumously
   The Climbs of Norman-Neruda (1899) by Ludwig Norman-Neruda (qv)


Julius Kugy (1858 - 1944)

Born: Austria

A climber who, because of his love, knowledge and experience of the Julian Alps,
was revered by the people of that area.

Publications :

   Alpine Pilgrimage (1934)
   Son of the Mountains: the life of an Alpine guide (Anton Oitzinger) (1938)


Jerzy Kukuczka (1948 - 1989) (w)

Born: Poland

The second man (after Messner) to climb all 14 eight thousand
metre summits.

Publications :

   My Vertical World


Lino Lacedelli (b. 1925)

Born: Italy

The first, with Achille Compagnoni, to ascend K2, in 1954.

Publications :

   The Ascent of K2 (1955) by Ardito Desio


Elizabeth Alice Frances Le Blond (1861- 1934)

Born: England

Founder and first president of the Ladies Alpine Club in 1907.
She also published under her other married names of Mrs Fred Burnaby or Mrs Main.

Publications :

   The High Alps in Winter (1883) by Mrs Fred Burnaby
   High Life and Towers of Silence (1886) by Mrs Fred Burnaby
   My Home in the Alps (1892) by Mrs Main
   Hints on Snow Photography (1894) by Mrs Main
   True Tales of Mountain Adventure for Non-climbers Young and Old (1902)
   Adventures on the Roof of the World (1904)
   Mountaineering in the Land of the Midnight Sun (1908)
   Day In, Day Out (1928) autobiography


Jacques and Tom de Lepiney

Born: France

The brothers made many significant first ascents in the Mont Blanc range in the 1920s
including :-
Aiguille du Plan - North Face
Pointe de Lepiney

Publications :

   Climbs on Mont Blanc (1930)


Peter Livesey (1943 - 1998) (w)

Born: England

A leading British rock climber of the 1970s

Publications :

   Rockclimbing (1978)


Tom George Longstaff (1875 - 1964)

Born: England

President of the Alpine Club, 1947 - 1949, he was one of the
great Himalayan climbers and explorers of the early part
of the 20th Century. He visited the Alps, the Rockies,
the Caucasus, the Arctic and Himalaya and, in 1907,
climbed Trisul (7120m), at that time the highest peak
ever attained.

Publications :

   This My Voyage (1949), autobiography


George W. Lowe (w)

Born: England

A member of the 1953 Everest expedition.

Publications :

   Because It Is There (1959)


Sir Arnold Henry Moore Lunn (1883 - 1974)

Born: England

Publications :

   Oxford Mountaineering Essays (1912)
   Skiing (1913)
   The Englishman in the Alps (1913)
   The Alps (1914)
   Cross-Country Skiing (1920)
   Skiing for Beginners (1924)
   The Mountains of Youth (1925)
   Alpine Skiing at all Heights and Seasons (1926)
   A History of Skiing (1927)
   Switzerland (1928)
   The Complete Ski-Runner (1930)
   Come What May (1940) autobiography
   And the Floods Came (1942)
   Mountain Jubilee (1943)
   Switzerland and the English (1944)
   Switzerland in English Prose and Poetry (1947)
   Mountains of Memory (1948)
   The Cradle of Switzerland (1952)
   The Story of Skiing (1952)
   Zermatt and the Valais (1955)
   Memory to Memory (1956)
   A Century of Mountaineering, 1857-1957 (1957)
   And Yet So New (1958)
   The Bernese Oberland (1958)
   The Swiss and Their Mountains (1963)
   Matterhorn Centenary (1965)
   Unkilled For So Long (1968) autobiography


Hamish MacInnes (b. 1920)

Born: Scotland

One of the most influential mountaineers of the 50s, 60s
and 70s. He has climbed difficult new routes, especially
in winter, made a major contribution to
mountain rescue, both as a leader of the Glencoe team
and as a developer of new, improved rescue techniques,
and has been responsible for the development of advanced
ice climbing equipment.

Main Achievements :

   First winter ascent of Raven's Gully, Buachaille Etive Mor (1953)
   with Chris Bonington (qv)
   Zero Gully, Ben Nevis (1957) with Tom Patey (qv) and A.G.Nichol
   The first British ascent of the Bonatti Pillar of the Dru (1958),
   with Bonington, Whillans (qv) and others
   A member of the two Everest SW face expeditions of 1973

Publications :

   Climbing (1963)
   Call-out (1973)
   International Mountain Rescue Handbook (1972)
   Climb to the lost world (1974)
   Look behind the ranges (1979)
   High drama (1980)
   Beyond the ranges (1984)
   Sweep search (1985)


Herbert Maeder (b.1930)

Born: Switzerland

Publications :

   The Mountains of Switzerland (1968)
   The Lure of the Mountains (1975)


Guido Magnone

Born: Italy

Took part in the first ascent of the Dru and ascents of Fitzroy and Makalu.

Publications :

   The West Face (1955)


George Herbert Leigh Mallory (1886 - 1924) (w)

Born: England

Publications :

   The Fight for Everest: 1924 (1925) by E.F.Norton (qv)
   George Leigh Mallory, A Memoir (1927) by David Pye
   George Mallory (1969) by David Robertson
   The mystery of Mallory and Irvine (1986) by Tom Holzel
      and Audrey Salkeld
   Mallory of Everest (1990), by Dudley Green
   The Ghosts of Everest (1999), by Jochen Hemmleb,
      Larry A. Johnson and Eric R. Simonson


Jean-Joseph Maquignaz (1829 - 1890)

Born: Breuil, Italy

Was with J.A.Carrel on the Italian Ridge of the Matterhorn
in 1865 when Whymper and his party were on their first
ascent of the Hornli Ridge.
With his brother Jean-Pierre he led Tyndall (qv) on the first traverse
of the mountain in 1868 and, in 1882, made the first winter traverse.
with Vittorio Sella (qv).

Publications :

   The Pioneers of the Alps (1887) by C.D. Cunningham (qv) and W. de W. Abney
   The Early Alpine Guides (1949) by R.W.Clark (qv)


Charles Edward Mathews (1834 - 1905)

Born: England

An original member of the Alpine Club and its President, 1878-1880

Publications :

   Annals of Mont Blanc (1898)


Pierre Mazeaud (b. 1929)

Born: Grenoble, France

Publications :

   On the Heights (1964), by Walter Bonatti (qv)
   The Great Days (1974), by Walter Bonatti
   Naked Before the Mountain (1974)


Charles Francis Meade (1881 - 1975)

Born: England

Publications :

   Approach to the Hills (1940)
   High Mountains (1954)


Hugh Merrick (1898 - 1980)

Born: England

Publications :

   Rambles in the Alps (1951)
   The Perpetual Hills (1964)
   The Alps in Colour (1970)


Reinhold Messner (1944) (w)

Born: Austria

Arguably the greatest mountaineer ever ( although some would
say Jerzy Kukuczka (qv) ), Messner was the first to ascend all
14 eight thousand metre summits.

Publications :

   The Seventh Grade (1974)
   The Challenge (1977)
   The Big Walls (1978)
   Everest: Expedition to the Ultimate (1979)
   Solo Nanga Parbat (1980)
   K2 Mountain of Mountains (1981), with Alessandro Gogna
   High Ambition (1982) a biography by Ronald Faux
   All 14 Eight-Thousanders (1988)
   The Crystal Horizon (1989)
   Free Spirit (1991)
   Antarctica: Both Heaven and Hell (1991)
   To the Top of the World (1992)
   Annapurna (2000)
   My Quest for the Yeti (2000)
   Hermann Buhl: Climbing Without Compromise (2000), with Horst Hofler
   Moving Mountains: Lessons on Life and Leadership (2001)
   The Second Death of George Mallory (2001)


Gwen Moffat (b. 1924) (w)

Born: England

Former mountain guide and mountain rescuer, now a prolific author of fiction.

Publications :

   Space Below My Feet (1961) Vol 1 of autobiography
   Two Star Red (1964)
   On My Home Ground (1968) Vol 2 of autobiography
   Survival Count (1972) Vol 3 of autobiography


Adolphus Warburton Moore (1841 - 1887)

Born: England

Publications :

   The Alps in 1864 (1867)


Nea E.Morin (b.1905)

Born: England

A leader in the development of women's climbing.

Publications :

   A Woman;'s Reach (1968)


John Muir (1838 - 1914) (w)

Born: Scotland

A naturalist who emigrated to the USA as a young boy and was largely responsible
for the establishment of many of the national parks there.

Publications :

   The Mountains of California (1894)
   My First Summer in the Sierra (1911)
   The Yosemite (1912)
   Travels in Alaska (1915)
   Steep Trails (~1918)
   Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada (1948)


Albert Frederick Mummery (1855 - 1895) (w)

Born: Dover, England

A brilliant rock climber who made important ascents in the Mont Blanc region and is said
by many to be the father of modern Alpinism.

First ascents :-

The Zmutt Ridge of the Matterhorn 1879, with Alexander Burgener (qv), J.Petrus and A.Gentinetta

North Summit of the Grands Charmoz 1880, with A.Burgener and Benedikt Venetz

The Grepon by the Nantillons Face 1881, with A.Burgener and B.Venetz

In spite of his achievements he was refused membership of the Alpine Club for several years, probably on class grounds.

During an expedition to Nanga Parbat, with Hastings and Collie (qv), he and two Gurkhas
disappeared whilst reconnoitring.

Publications :

   My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1895)
   Tiger in the Snow (1967), by W.Unsworth (qv)


Sir Hugh T. Munro (1856 - 1919)

Born: London, England

Publications :

   Munro's Tables were first published in 1891 in the September issue
   of the 'Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal'. They were revised and republished
   in 1921 and enlarged and republished in 1933. A new edition was published in
   book form in 1953. There have been many revisions and reprintings since.
   The first metric edition was published in 1974.


William Hutchison Murray (1913 - 1996)

Born: Liverpool, England

Publications :

   Mountaineering in Scotland (1947)
   The Scottish Himalayan Expedition (1951)
   Undiscovered Scotland (1951)
   The Story of Everest (1953)
   The Craft of Climbing (1964)
   The Evidence of Things Not Seen (2002), autobiography published posthumously


Joss Naylor (b. 1936) (w)

Born: Cumberland, England

Outstanding long-distance fell runner of the 1970s and early 80s.
In his native Lakeland hills he was supreme and virtually unbeatable.

Publications :

   Jos. Naylor - Fell Runner Extraordinary (1975) compiled by Ken Ledward
   Studmarks on the Summits (1985) by Bill Smith
   Joss Naylor MBE Was Here (1992)


Tenzing Norgay (1914 - 1986)

Born: Nepal

The first man to reach the summit of Everest in 1953 having been
a porter on the British expeditions to the mountain in 1935,
1936 and 1938. In 1952 he was a member of the Swiss expedition
and reached a height of 28200ft.

Publications :

   The Ascent of Everest (1953), by John Hunt (qv)
   Man of Everest (1955) by J.R.Ullman (biog)


Ludwig Norman-Neruda (1864 - 1898)

Born: Austria?



Publications :

   The Climbs of Norman-Neruda (1899) edited by May Norman-Neruda


Edward Felix Norton (1884 - 1954)

Born: England

The leader of the 1924 Everest expedition during which Mallory and
Irvine disappeared.

Publications :

   The Fight for Everest: 1924 (1925)


Wilfrid Noyce (1917 - 1962)

Born: England

First ascent of Trivor in 1960.

Publications :

   Mountains and Men (1947)
   Scholar Mountaineers (1950)
   South Col (1954)
   Everest is Climbed (1954)
   The Springs of Adventure (1958)
   Climbing the Fish's Tail (1958)
   Poems (1960)
   The Alps (1961), with Karl Lukan
   To the Unknown Mountain (1962)
   They Survived (1962)
   The Climber's Fireside Book (1964)


Paul Nunn (1943 - 1995)

Born: England

Publications :

   Everest the Cruel Way (1981) by Joe Tasker (qv)
   At the Sharp End (1988)


Prof. Noel E Odell (1890 - 1987)

Born: England

First ascent of Nanda Devi with Tilman in 1936.
A member of the 1924 Everest Expedition he was the last to see Mallory and Irvine alive.

Publications :

   The ascent of Nanda Devi (1937), by H.W.Tilman (qv)
   The Fight for Everest: 1924 (1925), by E.F.Norton (qv)


Lehmann Oppenheimer (1868 - 1916)

Born: Manchester, England

Publications :

   The Heart of Lakeland (1908)


Michel-Gabriel Paccard (1757 - 1827)

Born: Chamonix, France

A doctor who, with Jacques Balmat (qv), made the first ascent
of Mont Blanc on 8 Aug. 1786, having made three attempts on the
Gouter route in 1775, 1783 and 1784.

Publications :

   The Annals of Mont Blanc (1898) by C.E.Mathews


Thomas Walton Patey (1932 - 1970) (w)

Born: Scotland

Publications :

   Rakaposhi (1959) by Mike Banks (qv)
   One Man's Mountains (1971)


Bill Peascod (1920 - 1985)

Born: Ellenborough, Cumberland

Lakeland rock climber and artist who pioneered many routes
in the Buttermere valley

Publications :

   Journey After Dawn (1985), autobiography


Dorothy Pilley

Born: England

A leading climber between the wars.

Publications :

   Climbing Days (1935)


William Arthur Poucher (1891 - 1988)

Born: England

One of the most prolific of mountain photographers; the vast majority of his
published work was photo-albums.

Publications :

   Lakeland Through the Lens (1940)
   Snowdonia Through the Lens (1941)
   Lakeland Holiday (1942)
   Escape to the Hills (1943)
   Snowdon Holiday (1943)
   Scotland Through the Lens: Loch Tulla to Lochaber (1943)
   Highland Holiday (1945)
   Lakeland Journey (1945)
   Backbone of England (1946)
   Peak Panorama (1946)
   Camera in the Cairngorms (1947)
   Over Lakeland Fells (1948)
   Wanderings in Wales (1949)
   The Magic of Skye (1949)
   The Surrey Hills (1949)
   Lakeland Scrapbook (1950)
   Magic of the Dolomites (1951)
   Journey into Ireland (1953)
   North-West Highlands (1954)
   West Country Journey (1957)
   The Lakeland Peaks: A Pictorial Guide (1960)
   The Welsh Peaks (1962)
   Climbing With a Camera (1963)
   The Scottish Peaks (1965)
   The Peak and Pennines from Dovedale to Hadrian's Wall (1966)
   Scotland (1980)
   Lakeland Fells (1981)
   Wales (1981)
   The Lake District (1982)
   The Alps (1983)
   The Highlands of Scotland (1983)
   The Yorkshire Dales and the Peak District (1984)
   The West Country (1984)
   Skye (1985)
   Ireland (1986)
   The Magic of the Highlands (1987)
   Lakeland Panorama (1989)


Abate Achille Ratti ( Pope Pius XI ) (1857 - 1939)

Born: Italy

Publications :

   Climbs on Alpine Peaks (1923)


Gaston Rebuffat (1921 - 1985) (w)

Born: Marseilles, France

One of the greatest of French guides he made many first ascents
in the Mont Blanc Massif and was a member of the successful French
expedition to Annapurna, the first 8000m summit to be climbed,
in 1950.

Publications :

   Mont Blanc to Everest (1956)
   Starlight and Storm (1956)
   On Snow and Rock (1963)
   Between Heaven and Earth (1965)
   Men and the Matterhorn (1967)
   The Mont Blanc Massif: the 100 finest routes (1975)


Guido Rey (1861 - 1935)

Born: Italy

Publications :

   The Matterhorn (1907)
   Peaks and Precipices (1914)


Rick Ridgeway

Born: America

Ascended K2 without oxygen in 1978.

Publications :

   The Boldest Dream (1979)
   The Last Step (1980)


David S. Roberts (b.1943)

Born: America

Publications :

   On Snow and Rock (1963)
   The Mountain of my Fear (1968)
   Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative (1970)
   Great Exploration Hoaxes (1982)
   Moments of Doubt (1986)


The Rev. Archibald Aeneas Robertson (1870 - 1958)

Born: Helensburgh, Scotland

The first to complete the Munros, in 1901.

Publications :

   The First Munroist (1993) by Peter Drummond and Ian Mitchell


Andre Roch

Born: Switzerland

A leading climber between the wars and a member of the 1952 Swiss Everest expedition.

Publications :

   On Rock and Ice (1947)
   Climbs of my Youth (1949)
   Everest 1952 (1953)


Michael D. Romm

Born: Russia

Publications :

   The Ascent of Mount Stalin (1936)


Arthur Roth

Born: America

Publications :

   Eiger: Wall of Death (1982)


Alan Rouse (1951 - 1986)

Born: Wallasey, Merseyside, England

Outstanding mountaineer of the 1970s and 80s who excelled in all
aspects of climbing especially solo rock climbing. He was part
of the team, including Chris Bonington, Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman,
to make the first ascent of Mount Kongur (7719m) in 1981.

Publications :

   Everest the Cruel Way (1981) by Joe Tasker (qv)
   Kongur, China's Elusive Summit (1982), by Chris Bonington (qv)
   A Mountaineer's Life (1987), compiled by Geoff Birtles
   The Endless Knot (1991), by Kurt Diemberger (qv)


Galen Rowell (1940 - 2002) (w)

Born: America

A leading climber and wonderful mountain photographer.

Publications :

   The Vertical World of Yosemite (1974)
   In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods (1977)
   High and Wild (1979)
   Many People Come, Looking, Looking (1980)
   Alaska (1981)
   Mountains of the Middle Kingdom (1985)
   Mountain Light (1986)


Sir Hugh L. Ruttledge (1884 - 1961)

Born: England

Publications :

   Everest 1933 (1934)
   Everest: The Unfinished Adventure (1937)


George Samuel Sansom (1888 - 1980)

Born: England

Publications :

   Climbing At Wasdale Before The First World War (1982)


Victor Saunders (1951)

Born: Lossiemouth, Scotland

Publications :

   Elusive Summits (1990)
   Vertical Pleasure (1995), by Mick Fowler (qv)


Horace Benedict de Saussure (1740 - 1799) (w)

Born: France

In 1762 he offered a substantial reward for the first person
to climb Mont Blanc. It was finally climbed 24 years later
by Jacques Balmat (qv) and Michel Paccard (qv). De Saussure
made the third ascent on 3 Aug. 1787.

Publications :

   


Douglas Keith Scott (b. 1941) (w)

Born: England

One of the most experienced big mountain climbers in the
world today. The first Englishman to climb Everest.

Publications :

   Big wall climbing (1974)
   The Shishapangma Expedition (1984) with Alex Macintyre
   Himalayan climber (1992)


George Seatree (1850 - 1928)

Born: Alston, England

Publications :

   Lakeland Memories (1923)


Vittorio Sella (1859 - 1943)

Born: Italy

One of the greatest of mountain photographers.

Publications :

   Among the Alps (1900) by Samuel Aitken
   The Splendid Hills (1948) by R.W.Clark
   Karakoram and Western Himalaya 1909 (1912) by F. de Filippi


Eric Earle Shipton (1907 - 1977) (w)

Born: England

Probably the greatest mountain explorer of all time.

Publications :

   Nanda Devi (1936)
   Blank on the Map (1938)
   Upon That Mountain (1943)
   Mountains of Tartary (1951)
   The True Book About Everest (1955)
   The Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition, 1951 (1962)
   Land of Tempest: Travels in Patagonia, 1958-62 (1963)
   Mountain Conquest (1967) with Bradford Washburn (qv)
   That Untravelled World (1969)
   Tierra del Fuego - The Fatal Lodestone (1973)
   The Six Mountain-Travel Books (1985)


Joe Simpson (b. 1960) (w)

Born: England

Publications :

   Touching the Void (1988)
   The Water People (1992), a novel
   This Game of Ghosts (1993)
   Storms of Silence 1996)
   Dark Shadows Falling (1997)
   The Beckoning Silence (2002)


C.G. Malcolm Slesser (b. 1926)

Born: Scotland

Publications :

   Red Peak (1962)
   The Andes are Prickly (1966)


William Cecil Slingsby (1849 - 1929) (w)

Born: England?

One of the leading climbers and mountain explorers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
He spent much of his time in the mountains of Norway.

Publications :

   Norway: The Northern Playground (1904)


Albert Richard Smith (1816 - 1860)

Born: England

A writer who had a passion for Mont Blanc. He eventually climbed it in 1851
and thereafter made a good living presenting an illustrated lecture about his
experiences.

Publications :

   Mont Blanc (1852)
   The Story of Mont Blanc (1853)
   A Boy's Ascent of Mont Blanc (1859)
   The Story of Mont Blanc (1860), in Boy's Own Magazine
   Mont Blanc (1860), with a memoir of the author by Edmund Yates
   The Story of Mont Blanc, and a Diary to China and Back (1860)


Walter Parry Haskett Smith (1859 - 1946)

Born: Trowswell, Kent, England

Pioneer Lakeland rock climber who soloed the first ascent of
Napes Needle in 1886.

Publications :

   Climbing in the British Isles
     Volume 1 - England (1894)
     Volume 2 - Wales and Ireland (1895)


Robin Smith (1937 - 1962)

Born: Calcutta, India

Leading Scottish mountaineer of the late 50s and early 60s.

Publications :

     High Endeavours - The Life and Legend of Robin Smith (2005) by Jimmy Cruickshank


Frank Sydney Smythe (1900 - 1949) (w)

Born: England

Publications :

   Climbs and ski-runs (1929)
   The Kangchenjunga Adventure (1930)
   Kamet Conquered (1932)
   An Alpine Journey (1934)
   The Spirit of the Hills (1935)
   Over Tyrolese Hills (1936)
   Camp Six (1937)
   The Mountain Scene (1937)
   The Valley of Flowers (1938)
   Peaks and Valleys (1938)
   A Camera in the Hills (1939)
   Edward Whymper (1940)
   Mountaineering Holiday (1940)
   My Alpine Album (1940)
   The Adventures of a Mountaineer (1940)
   Over Welsh Hills (1941)
   The Mountain Vision (1941)
   Alpine Ways (1942)
   British Mountaineers (1942)
   Snow on the Hills (1946)
   Again Switzerland (1947)
   The Mountain Top (1947)
   Rocky Mountains (1948)
   Swiss Winter (1948)
   Mountains in Colour (1949)
   Climbs in the Canadian Rockies (1950)


Theodore Howard Somervell (1890 - 1975)

Born: England

Mountaineer and medical missionary who took part in the 1922
and 1924 Everest expeditions.

Publications :

   After Everest (1936)


N. Jack Soper (b.1934)

Born: England

Publications :

   The Black Cliff : The History of Rock climbing on Clogwyn du'r Arddu (1971), with Ken Wilson (qv)
      and Peter Crew


Peter R.C.Steele (b.1935)

Born: England

Publications :

   Two and Two Halves to Bhutan (1970)
   Doctor on Everest (1972)
   Medical Care for Mountain Climbers (1976)


Sir Leslie Stephen (1832 - 1904) (w)

Born: England

First ascensionist of several 4000m summits in the European
Alps including the Rimpfischhorn, Alphubel, Shreckhorn,
Zinal Rothorn. President of the Alpine Club from
1866 to 1868.
He was also a distinguished literary critic.

Publications :

   The Playground of Europe (1871)
   Men, Books and Mountains (1956) collected by S.O.A.Ullman


Hugh Edward Millington Stutfield (1858 - 1929)

Born: England?

Publications :

   Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies (1903) with Norman Collie (qv)


Frank Showell Styles (b1908)

Born: England ?

Prolific writer of mountaineering history, biography and fiction.

Publications :

   Climber in Wales (1948)
   The Mountaineer's Weekend Book (1950)
   Mountains of the Midnight Sun (1954)
   Introduction to Mountaineering (~1954)
   The Moated Mountain (1955)
   Getting to Know Mountains (1958)
   How Mountains are Climbed (1958)
   Look at Mountains (1962)
   Modern Mountaineering (1964)
   Blue Rmembered Hills (1965)
   The Foundations of Climbing (1966)
   Mallory of Everest (1967)
   On Top of the World (1967)
   Rock and Rope (1967)
   Men and Mountaineering (1968)
   The Climber's Bedside Book (1968)
   First on the Summits (1970)
   The Forbidden Frontiers (1970)
   Mountains of North Wales (1973)
   Backpacking in the Alps and Pyrenees (1976)


Geoffrey J.S.Sutton (b1930)

Born: England

Publications :

   Samson (1961), with Wilfrid Noyce
   Artificial Aids in Mountaineering (1962)
   High Peak (1966), with Eric Byne (qv)


Pierre Tairraz (1933 - 2000)

Born: France

Eminent mountain photographer, especially well known for his
images of the Mont Blanc Massif.

Publications :

   The Seven Valleys (1961), with Roger Frison-Roche
   Journey to the Heart of Mont Blanc (1999), with Mario Colonel


Joe Tasker (1948 - 1982) (w)

Born: Hull, England

A leading mountaineer of the 1970s and early 80s he climbed,
with Dick Renshaw, the North Face of the Eiger in the
winter of 1974 - 75.

Publications :

   Everest the Cruel Way (1981)
   Savage Arena (1982)


R. Philip Temple (b.1939)

Born: New Zealand

Publications :

   Nawok! (1962)
   The Sea and the Snow (1966)
   The World at Their Feet (1969)
   Mantle of the Skies (1971)
   Castles in the Air (1973)


Lionel Terray (1921 - 1965) (w)

Born: Italy

First ascent of Makalu II in 1954 with J.Franco. First ascent of Makalu in 1955 with J. Couzy.

Publications :

   Conquistadores of the Useless (1963)
   At Grips with Jannu (1957) with Jean Franco (qv)


Eustace Thomas (1869 - 1960)

Born: Manchester, England

A remarkable long-distance hill walker, he was the first to
traverse the Welsh 3000s and the Derwent Watershed in
the Peak District. He was once the holder of the Lake District
Fell Record of 66.5miles and 25,500feet of ascent
and descent within 24 hours. He took up Alpine
climbing at the age of 54 and succeeded in climbing
all the 4000m summits.

Publications :

   High Peak (1966) by Eric Byne and Geoffrey Sutton
   Studmarks on the Summits (1985) by Bill Smith


Dorothy Evelyn Thompson (1888 - 1961)

Born: England

Publications :

   Climbing With Joseph Georges (1962)


Herbert Tichy

Born: Austria

First ascent of Cho Oyu in 1954 with S.Joechler and Pasang Dawa Lama.

Publications :

   Tibetan Adventure (1938)
   Cho Oyu (1957)
   Himalaya (1970)


Harold William Tilman (1898 - 1978) (w)

Born: England

One of the great mountain explorers.
First ascent of Nanda Devi in 1936 with Noel Odell (qv).
Leader of the 1938 Everest expedition.

Publications :

   The ascent of Nanda Devi (1937)
   Snow on the Equator (1937)
   When Men and Mountains Meet (1946)
   Mount Everest 1938 (1948)
   Two Mountains and a River (1949)
   China to Chitral (1951)
   Nepal Himalaya (1952)
   'Mischief' in Patagonia (1957)
   'Mischief' Among the Penguins (1961)
   'Mischief' in Greenland (1964)
   Mostly 'Mischief' (1966)
   'Mischief' Goes South (1968)
   In 'Mischief's' Wake (1971)
   Ice with Everything (1974)
   Triumph and Tribulation (1977)
   The Seven Mountain-Travel Books (1983)


Francis Fox Tuckett (1834 - 1913)

Born: England

First ascent of the Aletschhorn in 1859

Publications :

   A Pioneer in the High Alps (1920), letters and diaries edited by W.A.B.Coolidge (qv)


Julie Tullis (1939 - 1986)

Born: London

Publications :

   Clouds from Both Sides (1986), autobiography
   The Endless Knot (1991), by Kurt Diemberger (qv)


Prof. John Tyndall (1820 - 1893) (w)

Born: England

First ascent of the Weisshorn in 1861.

Publications :

   The Glaciers of the Alps (1860)
   Mountaineering in 1861 (1862)
   Hours of Exercise in the Alps (1871)


James Ramsey Ullman (1908-1971) (w)

Born: America

Publications :

   High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering (1941)
   Kingdom of Adventure Everest (1947)
   Tiger of the Snows (1955)
   Americans on Everest (1964)
   Straight Up (1968)


Walter Unsworth (b1928)

Born: England

Prolific author, magazine editor and publisher of guidebooks.

Publications :

   The Young Mountaineer (1959)
   The English Outcrops (1964)
   Matterhorn Man (1965)
   Tiger in the Snow (1967)
   Because it is There (1968)
   The Book of Rock Climbing (1968)
   North Face (1969)
   The High Fells of Lakeland (1972)
   Encyclopaedia of Mountaineering (1975) (compiled by ...)
   Walking and Climbing (1977)
   Everest: A Mountaineering History (1981)
   Peaks, Passes and Glaciers (1981)
   This Climbing Game (1984)
   Classic Walks of the World (1985)
   Savage Snows (1986)
   An Illustrated Companion into Lakeland (1989)
   Hold the Heights: The Foundations of Mountaineering (1994)


Stephen Venables (b. 1954) (w)

Born: England

Publications :

   Painted Mountains (1986)
   Everest, Kangshung Face (1989)
   A Slender Thread (2000)


Jenny Visser-Hooft

Born: Holland?

Publications :

   Among the Himalayas (1899)


Alfred Wainwright (1907 - 1991) (w)

Born: Blackburn, England

Publications :

   See the detailed  A. Wainwright Bibliography

   Wainwright the Biography (1991), by Hunter Davies


James Hubert Walker

Born: Scotland

Publications :

   Mountain Days in the Highlands and Alps (1937)
   On Hills of the North (1948)
   Walking in the Alps (1951)


Michael Phelps Ward (b.1925)

Born: England

The doctor on the 1953 British Everest Expedition.

Publications :

   The Mountaineer's Companion (1966)
   In This Short Span (1972)
   Man At High Altitude (1974)
   Mountain Medicine (1975)


Henry Bradford Washburn Jr. (1910 - 2007)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Wainwright

Born: America

The greatest authority on Mount McKinley and a superb mountain photographer.

Publications :

   The Trails and Peaks of the Presidential Range of the
      White Mountains (1926)
   Among the Alps with Bradford (1927)
   Bradford on Mount Washington (1928)
   Bradford on Mount Fairweather (1930)


Thomas Weir (b.1914)

Born: Springburn, Glasgow,Scotland

Climber, traveller, photographer and broadcaster.

Publications :

   Highland Days (1948)
   The Ultimate Mountains (1953)
   Camps and Climbs in Arctic Norway (1953)
   East of Katmandu (1955)
   Focus on Mountains (1965)
   Weir's World (1994), autobiography


Willo Welzenbach (1900 - 1934)

Born: Germany

Germany's foremost Alpinist between the two World Wars.

Publications :

   Welzenbach's Climbs (1981) by Eric Roberts


Donald Desbrow Whillans (1933 - 1985) (w)

Born: Salford, England

One of the great British mountaineers and rock climbers.
He partnered Joe Brown (qv) during the 1950s when they raised
the whole standard of technical climbing.

Publications :

   The Hard Years (1967), by Joe Brown
   Portrait of a Mountaineer (1971), with Alick Ormerod
   The Villain: The Life of Don Whillans (2005), by Jim Perrin


Edward Whymper (1840 - 1911) (w)

Born: England

First ascents :-

Les Ecrins 1864, with A.W.Moore, H.Walker, Christian Almer and Michel Croz

Grand Cornier 1865, with C.Almer, M.Croz and F.Biner

Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Whymper) 1865, with C.Almer, M.Croz and F.Biner

Aiguille Verte 1865, with C.Almer and F.Biner

Matterhorn 1865, with :

            Michel Croz
            Lord Francis Douglas
            Douglas Hadow
            Charles Hudson
            'Old' Peter Taugwalder
            'Young' Peter Taugwalder

      Croz, Douglas, Hadow and Hudson perished on the descent.



Publications :

   Scrambles in the Alps in the years 1860 - 69 (1871)
   Travels Amongst the Great Andes of the Equator (1891-92)
   How to use the Aneroid Barometer (1891)
   Chamonix and the Range of Mont Blanc (1896)
   The Valley of Zermatt and the Matterhorn(1897)
   A Right Royal Mountaineer (1909)
   Episodes from the Ascent of Mont Blanc (1928)
   Edward Whymper (1940), biography by Frank Smythe (qv)
   The First Descent of the Matterhorn (1997), by Alan Lyall


Walter Dwight Wilcox (1869 - 1949) (w)

Born: Canada

Publications :

   Camping in the Canadian Rockies (1896)


Sir Alfred Wills (1828 - 1912) (w)

Born: England

An original member of the Alpine Club and President 1864-1865.

Publications :

   Wandering Among the High Alps (1856)
   The Ascent of Mont Blanc (1858)
   'The Eagle's Nest' in the Valley of Sixt (1860)


Ken Wilson (b1941)

Born: England

Publications :

   The Black Cliff (1971), with Jack Soper and Peter Crew
   Hard Rock (1974)    (compiled by ...)
   Classic Rock (1978)    (compiled by ...)
   The Games Climbers Play (1978)    (ed)
   The Big Walks (1980)    (compiled by ...)
   Classic Walks (1982)    (compiled by ...)
   Cold Climbs (1983)    (compiled by ...)
   Extreme Rock (1986)    (compiled by ...)


William Hunter Workman (1847 - 1937 )

Born: America

Publications, with Fanny Bullock Workman (1859 - 1925) :

   In the Ice-World of Himalaya (1900)
   Ice-bound Heights of the Mustagh (1908)
   Peaks and Glaciers of Nun Kun (1909)
   The Call of the Snowy Hispar (1910)
   Two Summers in the Ice-Wilds of Eastern Karakoram (1917)


Jeremiah Ernest Bamford Wright (1895 - 1975)

Born: England?

A professional guide and founder of the Mountaineering Association.

Publications :

   Mountain Days in the Isle of Skye (1934)
   Technique of Mountaineering (1955)
   Rock Climbing in Britain (1958)


Simon Yates (b. 1963) (w)

Born: Leicestershire, England

Publications :

   Touching the Void (1988), by Joe Simpson
   Against the Wall (1997)
   The Flame of Adventure (2001)


Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876 - 1958) (w)

Born: nr Cookham, England

Pioneer alpinist who lost a leg during the First World War but continued to climb for several years.

Publications :

   Wall and Roof Climbing (1905)
   Wind and Hill (1909)
   Freedom (1914)
   Mountain Craft (1920)
   April and Rain (1923)
   On High Hills (1927)
   Collected Poems (1936)
   In Praise of Mountains (1948), with Eleanor Young
   Mountains with a Difference (1951)
   The Grace of Forgetting (1953)
   Influence of Mountains upon the Development of Human Intelligence (1957)
   Snowdon Biography (1957), with Geoffrey Sutton and Wilfrid Noyce
   Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1995), by Alan Hankinson (biog)


Sir Francis Edward Younghusband (1863 - 1942) (w)

Born: India

One of the earliest explorers of the Karakoram.

Publications :

   The Heart of a Continent (1896)
   Kashmir (1909)
   Wonders of the Himalaya (1924)
   The Epic of Mount Everest (1926)
   Everest the Challenge (1936)
   Francis Younghusband, Explorer and Mystic (1952),
      by George Seaver (biog)
   Younghusband - The Last Great Imperial Adventurer (1994),
      by Patrick French (biog)


Emil Zsigmondy (1861 - 1885) (w)

Born: Vienna, Austria

Publications :

   In the High Mountains (1992)


Mathias Zurbriggen (1856 - 1917) (w)

Born: Saas-Fee, Switzerland

A guide who was with Conway (qv) in the Karakoram and Fitzgerald (qv) in
New Zealand and the Andes.

First ascent of the Weissmiess in 1855

Publications :

   From the Alps to the Andes (1899)