Born: Dover, England

A brilliant rock climber who made important ascents in the Mont Blanc region and is said by many to be the father of modern Alpinism.

First ascents :-

The Zmutt Ridge of the Matterhorn 1879, with Alexander Burgener, J.Petrus and A.Gentinetta

North Summit of the Grands Charmoz 1880, with A.Burgener and Benedikt Venetz

The Grepon by the Nantillons Face 1881, with A.Burgener and B.Venetz

In spite of his achievements he was refused membership of the Alpine Club for several years, probably on class grounds.

During an expedition to Nanga Parbat, with Hastings and Collie, he and two Gurkhas disappeared whilst reconnoitring.

Publications :

My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1895)

Tiger in the Snow (1967), by W.Unsworth