Henry Atkins ( c1818 - 1842 ) Ascent to the summit of Mont Blanc on the 22nd and 23rd of August, 1837
London: Calkin and Budd, 1838. 51pp, 6 plates, illus., 23cm.
Atkins made the 23rd ascent of Mont Blanc.
John Auldjo ( 1805 - 1886 ) Narrative of an ascent to the summit of Mont Blanc , on the 8th and 9th August, 1827
London: printed for Longmans, 1828. xii, 120pp, 20 plates, illus., map, 33cm,
Auldjo's was the 19th ascent of Mont Blanc. This book was the first to popularize the mountain.
Walter Bonatti Magic of Mont Blanc
London: Gollancz, 1985. 208pp, 200 colour plates, some double-page, no text, 34.5cm.
Magnificent photographic study of all the main peaks and ridges of the Mont Blanc range.
T. Graham Brown Brenva
London: Dent, 1944. xvi, 228pp, 73 black and white plates, illus., map, 22cm.
Detailed account of Dr. Graham Brown's exploits on the Brenva face of Mont Blanc between the wars.
Martin Conway The Alps
London: A and C Black, 1904. x, 294pp, 70 colour plates, illus., 23cm.
A general description of the Alps. The colour plates are from paintings by A.D.McCormick.
C. D. Cunningham and Captain W. de W. Abney The Pioneers of the Alps
London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1887. xii, 287pp, 24 plates, illus. mainly portraits, 33cm. (Also large paper, 41cm, edition of 50 copies numbered and signed by Cunningham.)
2nd edition, 1888. viii, 180pp, 23 plates, illus., 30cm.
Biographical sketches, by several contibutors, of the great early Alpine guides. The book includes photogravure portraits.
Helmut Dumler and Willi P. Burkhardt The High Mountains of the Alps - Volume 1: The Four Thousand Metre Peaks
London: Diadem Books, 1994. 224pp, illus. throughout with diagrams maps and colour plates, 29cm by 30cm.
Based on Karl Blodig's classic book 'Die Viertausander der Alpen' this new edition is illustrated by the magnificent large-format, colour photographs of Willi Burkhardt plus over 150 other superb action pictures. A wonderful book for planning or reminiscing.
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Sir Charles Fellows ( 1799 - 1860 ) A narrative of an ascent to the summit of Mont Blanc ( made by Charles Fellows and William Hawes )
London: The Author (printed by Thomas Davison), 1827. (2), viii, 35pp, 12 plates, illus., 30 - 33cm.
This was the fourteenth ascent of Mont Blanc.
Roger Frison-Roche and Pierre Tairraz Mont Blanc and the Seven Valleys
London: Nicholas Kaye, 1961. 267pp, 169 black and white photographs, map, 23cm.
A general survey of the area distinguished by the magnificent mountain photography of Pierre Tairraz.
C.E. Mathews The Annals of Mont Blanc
London: Fisher Unwin, 1898. xxiv, 368pp, 28 plates, illus. folding map, bibliography, 23cm. (The publishers produced another edition with 5 extra plates and a map.)
A monograph, by an original member and former president of the Alpine Club, on the history of Mont Blanc. Included is a chapter on the geology of Mont Blanc by Prof. T.G. Bonney.
Hugh Merrick Rambles in the Alps
London: Country Life, 1951. 128pp, illus., maps, 29cm.
Written and illustrated with black and white photographs by the author.
A.F. Mummery My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.
London: Fisher Unwin, 1895. xii, 360pp, 11 plates (some coloured), 28cm.
A classic of 19th century Alpine mountaineering literature.
Wilfrid Noyce and Karl Lukan The Alps
London: Thames and Hudson, 1961.312pp, 230 plates, illus., maps, 29cm.
Introduction and notes on the plates by Wilfrid Noyce and descriptive essays by Karl Lukan. Photographs (all black and white) from many sources.
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Gaston Rebuffat The Mont Blanc Massif - The 100 Finest Routes
London: Kaye and Ward,1975. 239pp, 265 photographs (89 in colour), over 100 maps, 26.5cm. From the original 'Le massif du Mont Blanc' (Editions Denoel, 1973)
A comprehensive description, lavishly illustrated, of the 100 finest climbing routes. Translated from the French by Jane and Colin Taylor.
Gaston Rebuffat Between Heaven and Earth
London: Nicholas Vane, 1965. 183pp, illus., 24cm.
The book of the film 'Entre Terre et Ciel'. Profusely illustrated with the magnificent photographs of Pierre Tairraz (8 plates in colour and 104 in black and white), including a fold-out of the South-West Pillar of the Drus. The book includes several detailed route descriptions including: the Matterhorn by the Hornli arete and the Lion arete, the Aiguille Verte by the Whymper Couloir, the first ascent of the south-east face of the south spur of the Aiguille du Midi, the south-west pillar of the Drus.
Gaston Rebuffat Men and the Matterhorn
London: Vane, 1967. 222pp, illus. (some colour, many double-page) 25cm.
Rebuffat's own experiences on the Matterhorn interlaced with extracts from the diaries and recollections of the pioneers. Some wonderful photographs especially those by Bradford Washburn. Translated from the French by Eleanor Brockett.
Guido Rey The Matterhorn
London: Fisher Unwin, 1907. 306pp, 35 colour plates, illus., 27cm.
Translated by J.C.Eaton from the Italian. A revised edition was published by Blackwell in 1946.
Guido Rey Peaks and Precipices
London: Fisher Unwin, 1914. 238pp, 48 plates, illus., 27cm.
Scrambles in the Dolomites and Savoy. Translated by J.C.Eaton from the Italian.
Arthur Roth Eiger: Wall of Death
London: Gollancz, 1982. 350pp, 49 black and white photographs (some double-page), maps, 23.5cm.
A history of climbing on the Eiger North Wall.
Shiro Shirahata The Alps
Berlin: Edition Weltkultur, 1985. 212pp, 104 large format colour photographs (many double-page), in pictorial slipcase, 37cm.
Yoshikazu Shirakawa The Alps
New York: Abrams, 1975. 136pp, 56 colour photographs (mostly double page), 4 maps, 35.5cm.
Text by Max Wyss, introduction by Chris Bonington. The splendour of the alps by the celebrated Japanese photographer. First published in Japan.
Frank Smythe Over Tyrolese Hills
London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1936. xvi, 292pp, 36 plates, illus., map, 23cm.
A traverse of the Austrian Alps
Pierre Tairraz and Mario Colonel Journey to the Heart of Mont Blanc.
Annecy: Editions Franck Mercier, 1999, 4th edition which includes text in English as well as French. 180pp, map, Colour and black and white plates, 31cm.
The mountain photography of Pierre Tairraz.
Dorothy Thompson Climbing With Joseph Georges.
Kendal: Titus Wilson, 1962. (xii), 159pp, 13 plates, 22 cm.
Climbing in the Alps between the wars. Written as a tribute to her guide and published posthumously.
Prof. F. Umlauft The Alps
London: Kegan Paul, Trench and Co., 1889. xii, 523pp, 110 illustrations, 2 fold out maps, 25cm.
Learned treatise on the Alps: geological, topographical, scientific, historical, ethnological, meteorological.
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Edward Whymper Scrambles amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69.
The major editions are:-
London: Murray, 1871. xx, 432pp, 23 plates, illus., 5 folding maps, 24cm. Some copies are marked '4th Thousand'.
2nd ed. (printing), 1871.
3rd ed. was abridged and published as 'The Ascent of the Matterhorn', 1880.
4th ed., see below.
5th ed., 1900. xviii, 468pp.
6th ed., 1936. xxii, 414pp. This had additional illustrations and material from the author's unpublished diaries. It was revised and edited by H.E.G. Tyndale.
Reprint of the 6th ed. 1948
7th ed., 1965.
Whymper's great classic.
Edward Whymper Scrambles amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69.
London: Murray, 4th ed.,1893. xx, 468pp, 23 plates, illus., 5 folding maps, 23cm, in slipcase.
The most famous book ever written about mountaineering in the Alps. It has run to many editions with the fourth, especially the de-luxe edition bound by Zaehnsdorf, being regarded as the definitive edition.
Sir Alfred Wills Wandering Among the High Alps
London: Bentley, 1856. xx, 384pp, 4 colour plates, illus., 20cm.
Wills's ascent of the Wetterhorn ushered in the 'Golden Age' of mountaineering.
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